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You're very welcome and I'm pleased you think so.

That's very true. I just wasn't expecting to have multiple uses for the same shortcut key, although it works well.

As far as I know, only thing you can change with the mask colour is making it Black, White or Transparent. That's in the dropdown to the immediate right of the Quick Mask icon in the toolbar. Using Black may make it more obvious but it makes it more difficult to edit at times.

@@RobinWhalley Mmm, I was afraid of that. If I buy it I will have to suggest that as a feature.

Thank you.

Yes. In Affinity Photo you can create Macros to automate things. In my opinion the Macro system isn't as extensive or flexible as the Photoshop actions but you can still do a lot with it.

I'm glad it helped you. Thank you.

You are most welcome. Thank you.

Whatever approach you use you still need to keep in mind the limits of the camera. With my M43 systems it seems easier to recover highlights while with the Fuji it's easier to recover shadows. This makes the M43 better suited to exposing to the right than the Fuji system in my opinion. But with either approach you can't exceed the camera limits. When I'm shooting landscapes, I still like to use filters to balance the exposure of the sky and ground irrespective of the camera. With woodland I don't use filters because I don't need to. It's really about understanding your system, so you know how it's likely to perform in different conditions and then you can decide how best to expose it. I also try to take into account the work that I'm likely to want to do in post processing.

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The horizon in the image is accurate. The landscape does slope off to the right. If you look at the trig point it's vertical. That's the only true reference in the image that we know will be level (unless the rocks have moved). I'm glad you liked the video.

I only did a few videos with music to try it out. After that I decided I didn't like it and dropped it. I like to keep trying things on UA-cam or my style won't develop.

Thank you. The locations in this area of the highlands were superb.

Thank you so much. If I can help people achieve more with their software, I've met my goal.

You're very welcome

Not with the methods I've shown in this video. You may be able to use the edge live mask in v2 to help fix a cracked surface but other than that, I can't think of much.

@@RobinWhalley Thanks. Alas since the great price it might still worth getting. Hence updates?..

Thank you very much. I'm always trying to improve the quality of my video delivery so I'm very pleased with your feedback. It won't stop me trying to get better though.

Glad you like them. Thank you

Spoons and enlargers are a bit hit and miss. I'll have to give some thought to a PhotoLab version as I probably wouldn't approach it like this.

Thank you. I'm glad you liked it.

Glad you liked it. Thank you

Thank you. That's nice to read.

You can use the same approach with Affinity Photo but you can't use tools like Lumenzia because they only work in Photoshop. You will also find that the effect produced by the blend modes in Affinity Photo differs to Photoshop. I can't seem to reproduce the same results with Affinity photo that I can with Photoshop.

Sorry mike I have no idea without eeing what you are doing. If you follow exactly what I did in the video it should work.

@@RobinWhalley I'll give it another try.

I think that I missed the part about using a traditional dodging layer. Can you link me to a video which explains that?

@@Mike-br4tw I don't have one. I don't use the traditional dodge and burn tools in Photoshop. I don't think they are very good.

Thank you. That's very good of you to say.

When I made the video it wasn't possible to do what you want to do because of the Photoshop co-ordinate system. I think Photoshop still has that limitation. Just use Lightroom.

Change the batch output setting to save JPEG.

No. I tried to explain why in the other comments.

You are welcome. Thank you

That was my question too :) You can go so far, but Ive not seen how to bring in those 'marching ants' in Affinity Photo.

Thanks. Unfortunately it's quite a bit more difficult using Affinity Photo, at least to achieve good results.

Is the issue that affinity doesn’t have an easy way to select the midtones of an image? I’ve seen other painting with light techniques in Lightroom videos where one just draws out an elliptical mask over the required area and then can apply adjustments to it. This feature seems to be missing in affinity - or have you found a way to do it :) Your affinity videos are how I’m teaching myself how to edit my photos. Very grateful they exist 🙏🏼

No, the blending modes don’t work in quite the same way as in Photoshop so the images often look flat. Selecting the different tonal ranges isn’t a problem. It’s making the adjustments look good.

Thanks. Unfortunately Lumenzia won't work with Affinity Photo. It's what's called an extension panel (although Adobe now calls them plugins). They only work with Photoshop. It's the same with Raya Pro and TK Actions.

Affinity Photo (at least since version 2) offers three selections for highlights, midtones and shadows instead. Not as powerful as the likes of Lumenzia, but also available on the iPad. If you only need it now and then, this might be enough. I actually do have Lumenzia, but never really used it (for various reasons, one being that I have the Apple Pencil on my iPad, and it works much better with Affinity Photo and Procreate than using the Surface Pen on my Surface Pro 7 with Photoshop).

I'm not sure what you were doing but when running PureRAW standalone you just seelct all the images and then click to add them to the processing queue. The only time you need to add the image to the queue in a separate batch is if you want to use separate settings for it. If you are using PureRAW from Lightroom just select all the images you want to process and then use the Process Now option.

Glad it helped. Thank you.

You're very welcome.

Great. I'm about to do the same but am not yet entirely decided.I just downloaded the trial version and check.

Thank you. At the risk of sounding a little pushy, you might want to take a look at my Affinity Photo books. I think they will help you. I noticed you commented on a couple of selection based videos so if you have a specific interest in that my latest book is How To Select It lenscraft.co.uk/project/how-to-select-it-book/

@@RobinWhalley Thanks. I do a *lot* of cutouts of figures from their background, and in later versions of Photoshop “Select subject” was a very useful tool to speed up starting the jobs, but of course Affinity doesn’t have that, so I’m having to remind myself of what I used to do!

@@RobinWhalley I just bought and downloaded the Kindle version. Looks good 👍

You're welcome.

You need to start by matching your watermark to the size of the images it's going to be applied to. Then run the action again on the image (not the ones you already watermarked) using the resized watermark.

Yes, Affinity Photo isn't for everyone and different people find different tools easier than others. I also like Luminar Neo but tend to use it more as a plugin for effects.

I'm glad you liked it. Thank you.

Yes it was but this approach also works in version 2. You can also influence the selections by the direction of the brush strokes making them either towards or away from an object. I cover all the Affinity Photo selection tools in my "How To Select It" book: lenscraft.co.uk/project/how-to-select-it-book/

The answer is don't blow the highlights. That said, most micro 43 camera's I've used allow for a lot of latitude in the highlights. Most of the time I use an 2 stop ND Grad on the sky with these cameras when shooting landscapes. That's enough to hold the highlights and allow me to expose for the shadows (taking care not to overexpose).

Thank you

There isn't much difference between the Affinity Photo defaults and Photoshop anyway.

Glad it was helpful. Thank you

It's probably not a good fit for you, then. When you feel this strongly, I usually find it's better to pick something else rather than trying to persevere.

Thanks, Robin. I find I can do a few more things with time and practice. Affinity is very powerful and versatile and that is no doubt why it can be difficult to use. I will persevere and practice.

Great to hear you enjoyed it. Luminar Neo is nice and it can do a lot for you with the AI. WHile you can use it stand alone, I like to use it as a Photoshop plugin.

Thank you.

Thank you. I'm glad you liked it.

Yes, you could do that although I would be tempted to do it differently, or at least experiment with this idea. Use the Pen Tool to select the glass in the windows. You can then use this to create a mask that removes the area. Take a second photo from outside the window. You can then combine the two pictures in one image. Put the outside shot as the bottom layer and then the interior shot with the mask on top. The mask will then allow you to see the outside shot through the widow. You may need to do some tweaks to the exposure and opacity of the layers/masks to prevent it from looking fake. The alternative is to use an iPhone to take the photo. The HDR feature should be able to capture what's outside.

@@RobinWhalley Thank you for the response Robin.. By any chance, do you have a video on that specific task of using the pen tool? Thank you again in advance